28/04/2025

Exploring Sardinia by bikepacking is a one-of-a-kind experience — a thrilling mix of untamed nature, ancient history, and authentic Sardinian cuisine. On this adventure, I rode a 400 km loop through the Sulcis Iglesiente, one of the island’s most fascinating and least-traveled regions. It’s an ideal destination for those craving cycling adventures off the beaten path.

Bikepacking in Sulcis Iglesiente: My Gravel Bike Itinerary

This route unfolds along gravel roads and quiet country lanes, leading through breathtaking coastal scenery, abandoned mines, ghost towns, and authentic villages. Riding my gravel bike — a reliable #Bianchi — loaded with 24 kg of self-supported gear, I cycled independently across six stages, from Pula to San Salvatore di Sinis. The trip took place in late October, a season of mild temperatures and often sunny skies.

Stage 1 – Pula to Sant’Anna Arresi (65 km, 650 m elevation gain)

I kicked off from the southwest coast of Sardinia, passing through Santa Margherita di Pula, Chia, Torre di Piscinnì, and Capo Teulada. This coastal segment offered incredible landscapes and hints of Nuragic civilization. I ended the day in Sant’Anna Arresi, indulging in porceddu (roast suckling pig) and ispinada (meat skewer) — a perfect introduction to Sardinian flavors.

Stage 2 – Sant’Anna Arresi to Portoscuso (64 km, 420 m elevation gain)

Heading deeper into the historic heart of Sulcis, I pedaled along an old railway track turned bike trail. After crossing to Sant’Antioco Island, I explored the ancient tuna fisheries and salt flats, then ferried to Carloforte and finally reached Portoscuso. A plate of culurgiones (Sardinian stuffed pasta) was the perfect ending to this windy yet scenic day.

Stage 3 – Portoscuso to Buggerru (68 km, 1010 m elevation gain)

One of the most panoramic stages of the trip. From Capo Altano to Nebida, then Masua and Porto Flavia, the mix of natural beauty and industrial archaeology is extraordinary. I rode past dramatic sea cliffs and old mining sites, with the iconic Pan di Zucchero dominating the horizon. In Buggerru, I rewarded myself with a hearty dish of malloreddus (Sardinian gnocchi).

Stage 4 – Buggerru to Arborea (55 km, 400 m elevation gain)

This stretch was all about the wild Costa Verde and the towering Piscinas Dunes, some of the highest sand dunes in Europe. I passed through Ingurtosu, Monte Cidro, and Portu Maga before arriving in Arborea. A rugged ride through coastal wilderness, ideal for those seeking deep contact with nature. Lunch included spaghetti alla bottarga, followed by a refreshing swim.

Stage 5 – Arborea to San Salvatore di Sinis (70 km, 600 m elevation gain)

I cycled into the Sinis Peninsula, riding through Oristano, Cabras, and Santa Giusta. This is where the authentic soul of Sardinia shines, in both the landscapes and the food: pane carasau, panadas, and lagoon views. I ended the ride in San Salvatore di Sinis, a village used as a Western movie set, near the ancient site of Tharros and the quartz beach of Is Arutas.

Stage 6 – Transfer to Cagliari

On the final day, I packed up the bike and caught a train back to Cagliari. With an Ichnusa beer in hand, I bid farewell to this authentic and generous island. Once again, bikepacking in Sardinia left me with intense emotions and a deep connection to the land I explored.

Tips for Your Bikepacking Adventure in Sardinia

  • Best time to go: Spring or autumn, to avoid extreme heat.
  • Recommended bike: Gravel or mountain bike, fully equipped for bikepacking.
  • Gear: Embrace self-sufficiency — services are scarce in many areas.
  • Ideal for: Travelers who love adventure, nature, and off-the-radar Sardinian culture.